A postmodern allusion to an apology is in order for my not having chronicled so much of what’s been going on lately. I’ll try in the future to keep you a little better apprised of the here and now. For in truth there’s been a lot of that, stretching back several weeks.
Green Hands and Orange Orbs, Festivals and General Edification
• I participated in Country Malt Group’s Hop Selection Team 2011, joining an all-star gang of luminaries from around North America in rubbing our hands together to select our favorite lots of ten varieties for all of Country Malt’s hop customers during the coming year. Hop selection is far more difficult than judging beer, since what you’re evaluating is nothing close to a finished product. There are aromas you like and don’t like, of course, but beyond that you’re making a bit of a leap in correlating that with the beer you expect to be able to make. Another highlight of the visit to the Yakima Valley was being allowed to roam the experimental fields at Loftus Farms, taking it all a step or two back along the production chain to evaluate things still on the vine. Look for us to be making some super-experimental brews with varieties so new to the game that they’re only designated by number.
• GABF this year yielded no medals (it happens) but a whole lot of activity, what with judging the entries for five sessions, putting together a pumpkin road show at the Falling Rock immediately following the Wednesday kickoff, and participating in a couple of events following in the publication-wake of The Oxford Companion to Beer, edited by our friend Garrett Oliver, and for which I wrote a couple of dozen entries. In addition, I attended a special dinner on Saturday celebrating the GABF’s 30th anniversary, at which there were terrific food and beer pairings and lots of reminiscence about the festivals earlier, and hairier days. Chris Black was the consummate host at Falling Rock. At one point a woman whose husband had not yet returned with the ticket necessary to receive a glass of New Belgium/Elysian collaboration Kick straight from the pumpkin seemed ready to burst into tears. Chris’s response? “Watch me work some magic,” he said to me quietly, and handed her a beer.
• Then there was pumpkinfest. Held for the first time at the new facility on Airport Way, the Seventh Annual Great Pumpkin Beer Festival finally provided the room for people to at least be able to tell what line they were standing in for over 50 different pumpkin beers. Numbers being what they were we tapped two pumpkins on Saturday, at four and six o’clock, and another on Sunday, each of which was filled with a different beer. Highlights of the selection–aside from thirteen different offerings from us (including collaborations with New Belgium and Tom Douglas Restaurants)–were Saint Arnold Pumpkinator, Silver City Punk Rauchen (always a favorite of mine), a trio of delicious beers from friend Will at Cambridge Brewing Co., three-year old Sour Pumpkin from Russian River, and the many many fabulous local offerings from our brewing friends in town, over in the mountains and across the Sound. Just as good, local Georgetown businesses reported record (and near-record) days from festival overflow, sorely needed during the extended period of road construction lately seen by the area.
• Not least of all, I attended the 3rd Mondial de la Biere held in Strasbourg, France. I represented American Craft Beer at the American Pavilion, pouring 45 beers from 13 different breweries and discussing them in a mixture of English, German, Spanish and very very poor French with a generally very interested crowd of attendees, some of whom still thought that American beer was most closely identified with Budweiser. Not to play favorites, the Avatar, Loser and Night Owl we sent over showed very well, eliciting admiration and spurring requests for distribution that we can’t possibly answer. It was a medium-sized festival, showcasing some international brands, but most national French breweries as well as some very interesting small French producers making beers you would never have expected from Gallic brewcraft. Nice beers from Corsica and Normandy, as well as a scattering of beers from around the country centered in a single booth, the chaos of which was both confusing and delicious. Strasbourg is a beautiful city (which I had not visited before), and I was able to do some exploring, both by myself and with a fairly sizable contingent of Canadian and British brewers who were in attendance. Given a few hours to spare one morning, I headed down to Colmar, about 50 km away, to take a look at Matthias Grünewald’s Isenheim Altarpiece. Judging at the Mondial is a different kind of experience, taking as much predisposition out of the picture as possible through the use of semi-opaque glasses and the withholding of style information. Among the Yanks, Smuttynose Brewing won a gold medal for their robust porter.
• With near-currency looming, I can report with a little more temporal ease the fact that the District Northwest meeting of the MBAA (Master Brewers Association of the Americas) was held this past weekend in Renton. Kevin W., Waylon, Dan-o, Markus and I all went down to attend the talks and hobnob with our brother (and sister) brewers. The theme was cask-conditioning, and two very knowledgeable British practitioners, Ian Bearpark from Daniel Thwaites Brewery and Jim Robertson from Wells & Youngs, set us all straight on the way things should be done. Then I followed with a presentation on practical challenge and necessity in New World versions of cask. I couldn’t resist: I finished with a picture of me tapping a pumpkin. Less scholarly than Ian’s and Jim’s talks, I stated the case of American brewers extremely fond of cask but working without the infrastructure of thousands of years. A terrific social event at Elliott Bay’s Burien location showcased around thirty different cask beers. The Brits were very polite, and I think enjoyed themselves (and the beers) quite a bit, but the fact remains: they don’t do cloudy beers; some of ours might have been a bit of a chewy mouthful. We also hosted the crowd at the new production facility on Saturday afternoon. Thanks to our Bill for making the place presentable and setting up an impromptu bar with a forklift and a pallet of bottles.
Coming this week: BitterSweet beer and chocolate festival at Fremont Brewing, combining the ingenuity of local brewers and the delicious chocolate products of Theo’s Chocolates.
Dick Cantwell
Elysian Brewing Co.
Seattle